What Do Asian People Drink In Makeup Videos
BEIJING — Wang Yuepeng is still angry about the first time he tried to buy a Dior lipstick.
"Are you going to use it?" Wang recalls the female person salesperson asking dubiously, after staring at him for a few seconds. Wang was already fond to makeup — he'd begun experimenting with information technology in high school when he spent 15 yuan ($2) on a concealer at the grocery store in a bid to comprehend his acne.
"What'due south wrong with me using it?" Wang retorted angrily. Nearly a decade later, his confront still scrunches into a frown every bit he recalls their interaction.
Much has changed since Wang'southward teenage years in central China's Henan province. The 25-year-old with dyed olive-light-green hair is now a professional makeup artist and 1 of the few well-known male makeup vloggers in Prc. He boasts almost 2 meg followers online, where he posts video tutorials on everything from applying double eyelid stickers and eyeshadow to making cosmetics last longer. While most of his followers are women, he believes that 1 day, wearing makeup will be equally common among men in Red china as it is in Republic of korea and Japan. "I already feel like everyone wants makeup," Wang tells Sixth Tone from his seat at an internet-famous yogurt shop in Beijing, having just attended a cosmetics upshot.
Popular male dazzler vloggers and makeup wearers share their experiences of using cosmetics in China. By Tang Xiaolan and Lu Yunwen/6th Tone
There'south picayune data on male cosmetics apply in Cathay, simply reports propose men are investing more in their appearance. Sales of men's preparation products — which include men's toiletries and fragrances but not cosmetics like foundation and mascara — grew at an boilerplate annual rate of vii.9 percent betwixt 2012 and 2016, much higher than the global average of 5.1 pct during the same menses, according to market research firm Euromonitor International. By 2021, Euromonitor expects the market to exist worth $two.two billion — 20 percent higher than in 2016.
Experts put the growing popularity of men'south beauty products in Cathay down to a number of factors, including a global trend toward men caring more nigh their appearance and the influence of the delicate, feminine K-pop artful on immature Chinese celebrities. Such stars take earned the moniker xiaoxianrou, or "piffling fresh meat," for their flawless peel and adolescent mannerisms — and they are even changing what constitutes a desirable man, says Song Geng, a University of Hong Kong professor whose enquiry focuses on Chinese masculinity. Eastward-commerce giant Alibaba predicts that the nation's obsession with little fresh meat volition boost cosmetics consumption among men — although it noted that nearly male person makeup customers only buy BB cream, a grade of low-cal foundation that covers blemishes in a natural-looking mode.
The changing attitude toward men wearing makeup is as well driven by beauty vloggers, with many makeup companies hoping to cash in on their fame and the beauty male child trend. Wang, for instance, recently flew to Singapore to attend an event held by American cosmetics make Urban Decay, and his schedule is packed with similar events organized past other international and local makeup companies. The well-nigh popular male person dazzler vloggers can make equally much as 10 meg yuan a year through a variety of avenues, including selling their own products and existence paid to advertise products past cosmetics companies, according to industry insiders.
A screenshot from a video posted by Bilibili uploader Wang Yuepeng on March 23, 2018.
These male beauty vloggers deed as trendsetters, showing viewers how to achieve certain looks, says Babette Radclyffe-Thomas, a Ph.D. candidate at the Academy of the Arts London who specializes in Chinese mode, beauty trends, and gender studies. "Equally there is increased online representation of men who wearable makeup, this will definitely pb to changing cultural ethics of who can and how to wear makeup," she says. "[It will also change] ethics surrounding masculinity and what products or behaviors are seen equally masculine or feminine."
For now, virtually male vloggers nonetheless target female person viewers with their makeup tutorials, just 22-year-former dissemination student Zeng Xuening wants to break the mold. His first makeup video, filmed in his iv-person dorm room at Zhejiang University of Media and Communications in 2015, was aimed at men. At the time, videos showing men'southward makeup routines were unusual: Guys posting makeup tutorials — virtually using but text and photos — typically donned long-haired wigs and made themselves upward to look like women. Nevertheless, Zeng'due south approach brought him 200,000 followers in ane night.
Zeng Xuening prepares to tape a video at a hotel in Shanghai, March 27, 2018. Tang Xiaolan/Sixth Tone
Zeng, who now has 1.7 million followers on microblogging site Weibo, believes he might be China's starting time male dazzler wanghong — a Chinese term for "internet celebrity." In a recent video series, he teaches viewers how to await like a "beautiful puppy" — cyberspace slang referring to an innocent, young, and loyal boyfriend. He dons a dark-brown men'due south wig and applies ivory foundation, earthy eyeshadow, and a rose-tinted gloss. Zeng sometimes receives negative feedback — he has often been called a "sissy" — only likewise gets positive comments from male person fans asking how to go started with makeup or how to meliorate their advent. He believes men now make upwardly 40 per centum of his followers.
One man who has tuned in to Zeng's videos is Che Huixuan, a student at Beijing Forestry University. At first glance, the 21-year-onetime'due south cramped and messy dorm room looks no unlike from any other male child's bedroom. But among the stacks of books, scattered jotter, and tangled cords on his desk-bound is an extensive collection of dazzler products.
"No one ever said only women can wear makeup," says the landscape architecture major, who'due south decked out in an oversized hoodie and skinny jeans and flaunts a daze of flamingo-pinkish hair. The slender Che first wore makeup as part of a student street trip the light fantastic toe organization in his freshman twelvemonth — now, he wears primer, foundation, concealer, eyebrow pencil, and lipstick every day.
Although Che loves how he looks in makeup, it has occasionally caused difficulties. At a family dinner back in his habitation province of Liaoning in northeastern China — where the patriarchal civilization dictates that men should act tough and authoritative — a eye-aged relative teased Che for "painting [his] little face too white." The awkwardness hung conspicuously in the air, Che recalls. He thought of explaining himself, but it was too much of a hassle. "Most people nonetheless hold prejudices confronting men in makeup. The current situation in China makes people assume that to be a human being, you take to be scruffy," he says.
And it tin can exist excruciating shopping lone, says Che, who likens the experience to entering a classroom total of girls. "There are empty seats, only I still experience bad-mannered joining them by myself," he adds. "Information technology would be much meliorate if I had visitor."
Che Huixuan puts on makeup in Beijing, March 23, 2018. Tang Xiaolan/6th Tone
At that place's a bigger problem Che has encountered while shopping for cosmetics: In that location aren't enough products specifically designed for men on the market place in China. He points to the lack of neutral-colored lipsticks that would adjust men and says cosmetics brands often assume their male customers all have oily skin, rather than considering dissimilar skin types.
Although Chinese companies are seeing the benefit of utilizing male beauty vloggers' influence, they've been deadening to roll out products specifically aimed at men. Internationally, Maybelline recruited its commencement male make administrator last year, and other companies have introduced men'due south cosmetics complete with masculine names like "manscara" and "guyliner." Simply in Red china, there are few male-specific makeup products bachelor. L'Oréal, for instance, has a men'southward skincare range rolled out globally that includes a BB cream, merely information technology's non marketed equally makeup. "Since 50'Oréal Communist china doesn't have cosmetic products and brands specifically targeted at men, nosotros tin can't answer to questions on this topic," L'Oréal China wrote in an e-mail to Sixth Tone. The company added that, fifty-fifty when a male Chinese glory is selected to endorse a production, brands usually expect him to draw female person fans rather than male person followers to cosmetics counters.
A screenshot from a video posted by Bilibili uploader Zeng Xuening on January. 29, 2018.
Zeng is less focused on addressing the lack of men's makeup options. Instead, he's on a mission to testify that makeup and masculinity can coexist. Zeng pays shut attention to his presentation in his videos: He lowers his phonation while speaking on camera and cuts scenes in which his pinky finger sticks out. "I want to link boys who wear makeup with a manlier image," he says. "I don't want to increment the public prejudice."
Zeng dreams of a futurity where men can wear makeup without having their masculinity chosen into question. "Some women on social media say, 'Even if I smoke, potable, and have tattoos, I'k still a good girl,'" says Zeng. "So I say: I make myself up, I tattoo my eyebrows, I use foundation, and I'yard still a real human being."
The Men Who Wear Makeup
Jace Ma (aka Jiesi Tela), 25
Most men even so don't want others to know that they wear makeup, says Jace Ma, who goes by the beauty vlogger name Jiesi Tela and who didn't want to use his given name for fearfulness of inconveniencing his family unit. Ma has no such qualms. "I notwithstanding remember 1 day asking my mother whether my makeup was too heavy, and my mother asking why I cared then much about other people'southward opinions," says the 25-twelvemonth-onetime, who ofttimes uses chroma, pink lipstick, mascara, and eyeshadow. "If even my parents don't intendance that I vesture makeup, I don't take to consider other people's reactions."
Jace Ma puts on makeup at his home in Beijing, March 25, 2018. Tang Xiaolan/Sixth Tone
Yet Ma has been exposed to his fair share of negative feedback. In college, he majored in traffic engineering — a male-dominated field — and feels that nearly people thought he was a "weirdo." After graduating, he worked at a game company, where once again virtually of his colleagues were men. His addiction to makeup prompted his boss to question his professional person abilities, says Ma. Somewhen, he quit his job and became a full-time beauty vlogger in September 2016. "Makeup is such a key thing that everyone should attempt — it made me better [within and out]," Ma says. "I recall there is notwithstanding a vast body of water of potential in the [male person dazzler vlogger] market."
Wu Shengjie, 22
Currently a student at Shanghai Second Polytechnic University, Wu Shengjie first got into makeup in high schoolhouse when he started grooming his eyebrows. Three years later, makeup has become equally much a part of his daily routine as showering and shaving. He spends 20 minutes every morning time doing his makeup in front of the mirror, using foundation, concealer, and contouring products. "I feel naked walking on the street without makeup nowadays," Wu says.
Wu Shengjie poses for a photo in Shanghai, March 28, 2018. Courtesy of Wu Shengjie
Dong Zichu (aka Benny Bitch), 22
Beauty vlogger Dong Zichu produces exuberant, sassy videos nether the moniker Benny Bitch. "Welcome to my channel! I'k Benny Bowwow," he says at the start of his videos, which he churns out at an incredible rate. Although he's received plenty of cruel comments since he first started posting videos in August 2016, Dong makes a point of reclaiming the abusive words then they lose their strength against him. "Since they telephone call me 'bitch,' I'one thousand glad to accept on that name," the 22-year-old vlogger tells Sixth Tone.
Dong now has nearly a million followers on video-sharing platform Bilibili. His success came as no surprise: When Dong was younger, he recalls, he had a knack for suggesting products to friends based on their specific needs. Present, when he recommends a production to his mainly female and gay male person followers, sales fasten: He claims that ii million items of a product he one time recommended sold inside ii days.
A screenshot from a video posted by Bilibili uploader Dong Zichu on March 24, 2018.
Though men marketing makeup is not a new phenomenon in many Western countries, Dong believes that China needs its own men'due south makeup tutorials. Chinese people oft have different eyes from Westerners, Dong says, which requires a different technique for applying eyeliner or eyeshadow. He has congenital his own cosmetics brand and dreams of becoming Red china's Jeffree Star, an American makeup mogul with 6.6 million followers on YouTube.
"Why can't a human be a beauty vlogger?" Dong says in the same dramatic tone he uses in his videos. "That stance is no different from gender discrimination in the workplace."
Editor: Julia Hollingsworth.
(Header prototype: A vlogger puts on lipstick while livestreaming in Shanghai, Jan. 3, 2018. Niu Jing/VCG)
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Source: https://www.sixthtone.com/news/1002062/beauty-boys-the-chinese-men-changing-the-face-of-makeup
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